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Alexandria in November. Dust, mud, and not much to do. Even though we were their to work, as soon as the sun came down, we automatically headed for the downtown, the heart of the town, where everything was happening.
The market. Fruits, vegetables, spices. But also chicken, rabbits and goats patiently waiting for their own death. The colors, the smells, like in any middle eastern city. But this sadness… this inner sadness that emanates from the building, the sidewalks, the dust, the cars, even the cats in this town are sad.
So we would go wandering in the city, just trying to avoid sudden death when crossing the street. A chicha café, but no music. Just concrete floors, wooden tables, and the light smoke from the chicha. We got used to going there, thinking that this was the best Alexandria had to offer.
Then one night, Hasna came along and said: “I know a place”. Even though noone was really sure this place existed, we followed Hasna, as if in a dream. She started asking people on the street of anyone knew the Cab d’Or. Only indifferent looks answered us. But Hasna didd’t give up. She kept on asking and asking, until one man answered her by saying: “I know this place, it’s not far from where I live”. So he walked with us.
We were quite determined. Then we saw it, it was their, in the middle of a gloomy street: Tourist Restaurant - Cab d’OR
Hmm… We weren’t really convinced. What did “tourist restaurant” mean anyway?
But we went inside because the temptation was stronger.
Then we met Mr. Achraf.

Suddenly the sadness of Alexandria just faded. The imported bottles of whisky and vodka appeared out of nowhere. Even the cats were smiling now.